Cafe Hawelka

Vienna’s best cafes: the ultimate guide from a local

Picture of Leigh Turner
Leigh Turner

Vienna’s best cafes?  How can you find the best cafe for you?  Start here with my Vienna cafe reviews.

Which are Vienna’s best cafes?

Vienna is full of cafes.  But which are best?

Cafe Hawelka, Vienna, Austria

The entrance to the Cafe Hawelka – photo Robert Pimm

Many Viennese cafes are rather good.  I like the fact that most of them use old-fashioned Viennese coffee types (kleine Schwarzer, kleine Brauner, Verlängerter, Franziskaner) instead of, or sometimes in addition to, the world-conquering Italian descriptors (Cappuccino, Macchiato, Latte & Co).

What distinguishes a good Vienna cafe?

For me, Vienna’s best cafes have a wonderful, unrenovated charm.  This is often but not always accompanied by friendly and efficient service.  Some Vienna cafes (not my favourites) suffer from the traditional clockwork stop-motion effect waiters.  These gentlemen (nearly always men) will not deviate from their course to “serve” customers under any circumstance.

But then, what do you want?  Would you rather, in Vienna, have a traditional-looking Austrian waiter, who maybe doesn’t speak English and isn’t conspicuously polite, or a fast-moving identikit youth who could be in Seattle or Siena?

I even mention the service of Viennese waiters in my novel Eternal Life.

Viennese cafes also often serve terrific cakes; and other food and drink, from sausages to breakfast and beer.  Check the menu; and choose your cakes at the counter if you’re not sure.

All of the “Vienna’s best cafes” reviewed are ones I would to return to.  If a cafe does not appear in the list, that means either that I haven’t tried it yet; or that I have tried it and am not desperate to return.

Vienna’s best cafes: the reviews

Cafe Bräunerhof (Stallburggasse 2, 1st District).  Nestling in a back street near the tourist heart of Vienna, the Cafe Bräunerhof has nonetheless kept a wonderfully unrenovated traditional ambience, complete with uniformed waiters and, sometimes, live music at no extra charge.  The Bräunerhof has a particularly enjoyable good “stepping back in time” feeling, with plenty of locals reading books and newspapers.  Apparently the Bräunerhof has a reputation for grumpy waiters but on numerous visits  mine have been conspicuously fast and civil.  One of my favourite Vienna cafes.

Cafe Braunerhof

The cavernous, welcoming interior of the Cafe Bräunerhof

Cafe Central (Herrengasse 14, 1st District). Amongst the most famous Vienna cafes, the Central occupies an exquisite space in the Palais Ferstel, originally built in 1860 to house the Austrian National Bank and stock exchange.  Although opened “only” in 1876, the cafe’s historical legacy is powerful: Wikipedia says that when Victor Adler objected to Count Berchtold, foreign minister of Austria-Hungary, that war would provoke revolution in Russia, he replied: “And who will lead this revolution? Perhaps Mr. Bronstein (Leon Trotsky) sitting over there at the Cafe Central?”  Despite repeated renovations, the Central has masses of atmosphere and is worth a visit, so long as the queues are not too long.  Service can be a bit slow.

Cafe Central, Vienna, Austria

The Cafe Central is spectacular 

Dolce Pensiero (Salzgries 9b, 1st District) is not a traditional Viennese cafe: no waiters in waistcoats, no 19thC architecture or famous historic guests.  But it distinguishes itself by a wonderful outdoor ambience, friendly, efficient staff, good coffee and a splendid array of cakes (see picture).  I enjoyed a cappuccino and a home-made lemonade and left feeling as though I’d experienced a little piece of Italy.  Nice name, too.

Dolce Pensiero, Vienna, Austria

The counter at the Dolce Pensiero

Cafe Eiles (Josefstädterstrasse 2, 8th District) is a grand, spacious cafe famed for its good service and good coffee.  I found it airy, quiet, and enjoyable: a splendid blend of a traditional Vienna cafe, comfort and service.  As the Eiles is located about ten minutes’ walk beyond the Ringstrasse, you may want to combine a visit with the stroll around the Town Hall – a 19thC Neogothic masterpiece; the parliament building; and perhaps the Volksgarten.  Definitely one of Vienna’s best cafes.  You can read my full review of the Eiles here.

Cafe Eiles, Vienna, Austria

Breakfast at the Eiles

The confusingly name Cafe Engländer (the name of a former proprietress Salomea Engländer, not a nationality) sits quietly in the Postgasse in the 1st District, somewhat off the beaten track.  Unremarkable from the outside, the interior is a gem: cool, ’50s design backs up Engländer’s reputation as a creative, nonconformist hangout.  The waiters are 100% traditional – uniforms, no smiles – but actually offered fine service on several recent visits including making a big effort to find me a table.  The Cafe also has good food.  A great blend of a traditional Vienna cafe and something a bit alternative.  I’ll be back.

Cafe Englander, Vienna, Austria

From outside, the subtle interior of the Engländer is hard to make out 

Cafe Hawelka (Dorotheergasse, 1st District). One of the great Vienna cafes: a city-centre gem with a pleasing sense of history, including busts of  former owners Josefine and Leopold Hawelka and apparently unrenovated since I lived in Vienna in the 1980s.  Top ambience with a pleasing sense of calm and refuge as soon as you walk in, although proximity to the Graben means it can get a bit full.  Unique and another of my favourite Vienna cafes.

Jonas Reindl Coffee Roasters (Währingerstrasse 2-4, 9th District). A relative upstart on the Vienna Cafe scene, Jonas Reindl is a coffee-lover’s paradise nestled just outside the Ring near the Schottentor (whose tram station, according to the Cafe’s excellent website, is the inspiration for the name Jonas Reindl). I found the coffee notably good – the website goes into loving detail on its origins – and the atmosphere pleasingly student-oriented, with a friendly buzz and no waiters wearing waistcoats. I’ll be back!

A delicious cup of coffee at Jonas Reindl in the 9th District.

Kleines Cafe (Franziskanerplatz 3, 1st District).  Rarely was a cafe so aptly named as the Kleines Cafe (“Small Cafe”): it is microscopic.  Located in one of the most ancient parts of Vienna, its unrestored facade conceals a pint-sized, unrestored interior.  Despite its location close to peak tourist zones of the city the Kleines Cafe exhibits the so-laidback-as-to-be-nearly-horizontal style of the best old Viennese cafes, with locals taking their time to sit and read a newspaper over a leisurely cup of coffee, a beer or a sausage.  A delightful, quirky cafe and cosy.  Take care in the summer: the seats in the square outside may not belong to the Kleines Cafe.

Kleines Cafe, vienna, Austria

Kleines Cafe (bottom left) and Franziskanerplatz by night 

Cafe Korb (Brandstätte 9, 1st District).  You can tell the Korb is a top Vienna cafe the moment you click on their website: a steaming cup of coffee invites you, Alice-like, to “Enter”.  Stepping into the cafe itself is initially less intriguing: although the cafe was founded in 1904 (Sigmund Freud was a regular), the decor is the result of a 1960s makeover and not everyone’s cup of tea, or coffee.  But the ubiquitous pictures of the owner, the legendary Susanne Widl, are a hint that the Korb is an exceptional Vienna cafe.  A decorated cellar lounge offers a rich programme of cultural stimulation from music to poetry to readings by our very own Robert Pimm; the cool manager, Franz Schubert, plays the saxophone.  Even the loo doors are interesting (big in Japan, apparently).  A  place of special Viennese magic.

Cafe Korb Vienna Austria

The “Gents” (left) and “Ladies” signs at the Cafe Korb

Cafe Landtmann (Universitätsring, 1st District).  The Landtmann is one of the most famous and venerable Vienna cafes and meeting places, sitting on the Ringstrasse close to the Burgtheater, the Town Hall, the University and a host of city centre attractions.  From the outside it is unexceptional; but inside, a series of spectacular linked rooms offer a host of cosy seating options – once you can get a waiter to take you to a table.  The atmosphere is bustling and cosmopolitan, with plenty of both Viennese and tourists, and the uniformed waiters rushing around holding trays stacked with  coffee and cakes can be a bit intimidating on a first visit.

Cafe Malipop (Ungargasse 10, 3rd District).  Off the beaten track, the Malipop is a cult Vienna cafe.  The vibe is more student-intellectual than tourist,  with exceptional vinyl music, a patina of ages and a sense of refuge from the outside world.  It may not suit everyone who wants a “Vienna cafe experience”, but I like it.  See my enthusiastic full review.  Definitely one of Vienna’s best cafes if you want something utterly different!

Cafe Morgenstern (Sankt-Ulrichs-Platz 5, 7th District).  Hidden off the street in the beautiful but curiously underpopulated St Ulrichs Platz, the Morgenstern is a determinedly grungy and alternative Vienna cafe.  Everyone is cool and hanging out, both staff and waiters.  The interior is fetchingly shabby and somewhat Gothic with a sense of numerous regulars and a hint of post-communist retro-chic in the illuminated red star.  Best feature for me was the terrace outside, with an immense sense of place.  We enjoyed a decent Schladminger BioZwickl and a “Baguette Morgenstern”.  Worth a visit if you fancy something different off the beaten track.Cafe Morgenstern Vienna Austria

The grunge decor in the Morgenstern 

Cafe Museum (Operngasse, 1st District).  Occupying a prominent position on the corner of the Karlsplatz opposite the “Third Man” tours, the Naschmarkt and the Secession, the Cafe Museum is the epitome of an traditional Vienna coffee house which has been restored to modern standards.  It used to be my regular in the mid-’80s when I lived nearby in the Wiedner Hauptstrasse.  As the pictures below show, the restoration has improved the external appearance of the cafe, which serves a comprehensive range of food and drink in a tastefully-restored interior and boasts a large terrace. The Cafe Museum also runs a respected series of literary readings and, like the best cafes, doesn’t rush you.  Service on my latest visit was fine.  But the restored cafe perhaps lacks the charm which makes cafes like the Sperl, Hawelka or Braunerhof Vienna’s best cafes for me.

Cafe Museum Vienna Austria

The Cafe Museum in 2017 

Cafe Museum Vienna Austria

The Cafe Museum in 1987 (pre-renovation) 

Oberlaa Konditorei (Kurbadstrasse, 10th District).  A Vienna cake institution which has spawned a chain of pleasant cafes, with a strong focus on patisserie (I had the Apfel Streusel Kuchen – apple crumb cake – and a kleiner Schwarzer).  A bustling, lively place whose modern decor is offset, in the original near the Kurpark, by a certain grandeur and an impressively large range of top Vienna cakes.  Got a sweet tooth?  You know you deserve it.

Oberlaa Konditorei, Vienna, Austria

The terrific cake selection at the Oberlaa Konditorei 

Palmenhaus (Burggarten 1, 1st District).  One of Vienna’s newer cafes, opened in 1998, in an airy greenhouse built in 1901.  In winter, you can sit inside; in summer, the terrace is beautiful, with a view of the Burggarten.  Good for people-watching or chilling; no pressure to move.  The furniture on the terrace is functional; that inside is comfier.  A friendly place with a lively ambience.

Palmenhaus Vienna Austria

The Palmenhaus terrace has a lovely location 

Cafe phil (Gumpendorferstrasse 10-12, 6th District).  Almost opposite Cafe Sperl (below) the phil is a self-confident alternative antithesis to traditional Viennese cafes.  Books, music, furniture and terrible puns are all on the menu (‘phil free to come back’; ‘bilbio-phil’; ‘audio-phil’; ‘retro-phil’; ‘phil-good’ and so on).  The web-site (‘, as in viel’) is a conglomeration of cultural cool.  Criticised by some as a hangout of ‘bobos’ (bourgeois bohemians’) the phil’s menu even includes a ‘bobotoast’.  It’s scarily effective – as if Jeff Bezos, say, had taken over your favourite cafe, researched what you wanted, and delivered it with wit, panache and profitability.  Next to all this, the actual food and drink feels almost incidental.  Decent street terrace.

Cafe Phil Vienna Austria

Suitably arty Phil-photo of the Phil-fare (with philburger) 

Cafe Sperl (Gumpendorfer Straße 11, 6th District).  Another of my favourite cafes, located in a backstreet close to, yet divorced from, tourist zones, the Sperl was recommended by a reader.  I found it a treasure: a traditional Vienna cafe, spacious and atmospheric in a perfect 19thC way with faded plush seats, high ceilings, uniformed but efficient waiters, and a delightful, timeless air which it is hard to imagine persisting in any other European city.  A brilliant space to spend time.   100% Viennese.  Another place I’ve been impressed by good service.  A bit controversial: for me, definitely one of Vienna’s best cafes but some people don’t like it much.

Cafe Sperl Vienna Austria

The Cafe Sperl on a quiet Thursday night 

Cafe Schwarzenberg (Kärntner Ring 17, 1st District).  The Schwarzenberg is one of the oldest Vienna cafes: it is certainly one of the grandest.  A sensitive late 1970s restoration has left it with one of the most pleasing interiors amongst the historic Viennese cafes.  Service is in the stately Ringstrasse tradition where the customer is expected to know his or her place and waiters of immense experience know that when things get busy, thirsty clientele and uncleared tables will both have to wait a bit.  Clientele is mostly international, but I warmed to the waiters seeing them joshing with elderly Viennese regulars.  My Kleine Schwarzer (see pic) was delicious and hot.  I liked the sugar dispensers instead of sachets.

Cafe Schwarzenberg Vienna Austria

I enjoyed a fine coffee & leisurely read at Cafe Schwarzenberg 

Cafe 7*Stern (Siebensterngasse, 7th District).  Not your typical Vienna cafe, the Siebenstern lies in the Seventh District amidst a profusion of alternative eateries, cafes, pubs and shops.   In the summer, a street cafe blooms outside in an agreeably lively but not too noisy square.  This is “shabby chic” territory, with customers vying with the waiters for who can look coolest and a hard core clientele of locals who love the place.  I am a fan: my coffee was perfect, and accompanied by a litre bottle of water and a mug; the service was good; and the atmosphere, on a warm May Sunday afternoon, bohemian.  Interestingly TripAdvisor clients seem to hate the place – but does that make you want to visit or to stay away?

Cafe Siebenstern Vienna Austria

The Cafe 7*Stern 

Strandbar Herrmann (Herrmannpark, 3rd District) is not really a cafe.  But it is a regular haunt of mine; is a unique spot in the centre of Vienna; and has charm.  When Vienna is baking in summer heat, this is the place to come for an ice-cold beer or soft drink, to watch the Danube Canal flowing by a few paces away.  For a full review, see my post 7 reasons to like the Strandbar Herrmann.

Strandbar Herrmann Vienna Austria

Strandbar Herrmann on an August evening 

Cafe Tirolerhof (Führichgasse 8, 1st District).  A traditional Vienna cafe in the heart of the tourist zone with plenty of space inside and a sunny terrace in good weather.  The Tirolerhof has the kind of comfortable, spacious but unrenovated look I like best in Viennese cafes, and does not even have a website.  The cafe polarises opinion: TripAdvisor has several reviews complaining about the service; but on my visits I found the service, despite the traditional feel of the place, quick and responsive; and enjoyed both clientele (mostly locals) and coffee to the extent that I’m thinking this might become one of my regular haunts.

Cafe Tirolerhof Vienna Austria

The Tirolerhof on a bright October day: strictly traditional – RP

Ungar Grill (Burggasse 97, 7th District).  It is perhaps cheeky to review the Ungar Grill, which is off the tourist beaten track and not strictly a cafe.  Rather, it a place where eating and drinking (notably of beer) play as important a role as coffee consumption.  But the Ungar Grill deserves a mention as an exceptional example of the no-problem type of Viennese cafe where the prices are modest; the food decent; the service good; and both staff and guests have flair, perhaps based around the proprietors’ fondness for modern Austrian music and musicians, many of whom seem to hang out here.  I like the neon; and it’s an excuse for a stroll down the Burggasse, an example of the vibrancy of some city centre zones outside the 1st District. NB a reader tells me that since this review, the Ungar Grill has closed. Tragic if true. Can anyone confirm this?

Ungar Grill Vienna Austria

The Ungar Grill by night 

Cafe Zartl (Rasumofskygasse 7, 3rd District).  A friend recommended Cafe Zartl after enjoying a fine family breakfast, and I checked it out on a sunny Sunday evening to find I was the only guest.  Despite this, the service was not outstanding.  Outside and in, the Zartl looks perfect for a faded, traditional Vienna cafe, and is close to the Hundertwasserhaus, guaranteeing some tourist visits.  But it doesn’t quite have the rich (tho’ equally faded) decor of, say, the Sperl, or masses of atmosphere (hard, admittedly, when you are the only guest).  Worth a visit if you need a cafe near the Hundertwasserhaus but probably not one of Vienna’s best cafes.

Cafe Zartl Vienna Austria

Cafe Zartl looks great in the evening sun 

Zum Schwarzen Kameel (Bognergasse 5, 1st District).  Sum Schwarzen Kameel is not exactly a cafe but I have included it as it is one of Vienna’s coolest places.  Nestled in the heart of the First District close to a plethora of so-called designer shops it is frequently packed with both tourists and well-heeled locals enjoying an eclectic blend of alcohol, open sandwiches, cakes and hot beverages.  My first impression was: “this is all a bit much” (or, as the Germans might say, schickimicki). My second impression was: “das hat ‘wos” (this place has a certain something).  Service at the standing bars (there are no tables) is excellent; the decorative details (see picture at my full review of Zum Schwarzen Kameel) are exquisite; and the ambience has a headlong city flair.

Zum Schwarzen Kameel Vienna Austria

Some of the staff at the Kameel make eccentricity an art form – Photo RP

What do you think?  I’d love to hear from you.  Do you disagree – or have one of Vienna’s best cafes I should check out?  You can comment using the form at the foot of the page.

And where was that cafe whose head waiter told my host – someone who had been going there for years – that if he was in a hurry he should have stayed at home?  Guesses welcome!

And if you want to read how I’d run a cafe, restaurant or Hotel, check out my Hotel Stories – entirely 100% fictional in every case.  

Leigh Turner Seven Hotel Stories

P.S. see my piece When dinner becomes the last supper for a tongue-in-cheek guide to “why German waiters are the best”.


Sign up for my update emails

…and receive a FREE short story!

I won’t pass on your details to third parties / unsubscribe whenever you wish

3 Responses

  1. Wow. I’ve never seen or heard of those coffee types (kleine Schwarzer, kleine Brauner, Verlängerter, Franziskaner) but they sure sound like a cool break from the Italian types. I don’t know much about Vienna but this post sure provides great insights along with incredible pictures. Thank you so much for sharing!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Related Articles

3 Body problem

The Three-Body Problem

“The Three-Body Problem” is out on Netflix. Some Chinese critics are reportedly angered by the Netflix series, including its depiction of China. I can see why.

Read More
Travis McGee

Travis McGee, loner prototype

Travis McGee, the creation of US author John D MacDonald, is a superb prototype of a loner hero. Lee Child cites him as an inspiration for his solo tough guy, Jack Reacher.

Read More
Phineas Finn

Phineas Finn: The Irish Member

You have to worship an author who wrote: ‘It has been the great fault of our politicians that they have all wanted to do something.’

Read More
The Tunnel Under the World

The Tunnel Under the World

The Tunnel Under the World begins with the words: “On the morning of June 15th, Guy Burckhardt woke up screaming out of a dream.”

Read More
Pip, Estella and Miss Haversham in "Great Expectations" by Dickens

Great Expectations

“Great Expectations” is a stand-out Dickens: rich in wisdom, love and astonishing set pieces. It’s also full of great quotations – see here.

Read More
Can You Forgive Her

Can You Forgive Her?

Can You Forgive Her? by Anthony Trollope oozes sex and politics. It’s funny, moving and enlightening. Read it.

Read More